If on case you think you smell a leaking gas close to the gas water heater, quickly turn off the pilot light, then close the main gas valve and DO NOT activate any electrical power switch, not even the light.  Call a plumber or a gas utility company immediately, from another room.  This is considered to be a very big problem wherein any presence of spark is dangerous.

Gas Water Heaters – Its Main Parts and How They Work

In order for you to properly identify common problems and symptoms associated with gas water heaters and how to troubleshoot and do repairs on them, it is essential that you become familiar with the main parts of a gas water heater and how it works.

• The cold water from the house plumbing enters the heater tank, then through the dip tube, and fills the tank from the bottom up.
• The control valve is responsible for keeping the small pilot light on.  When the temperature on the thermostat drops below the set temperature, it ignites the burner.
• The hot flue gases run through the flue pipe that is situated in the middle of the tank and transfers the heat to the surrounding water, which makes it warmer and then finally hot.
• The hot flue gases then get colder due to the transfer of heat and vent out either naturally or forced by the power vent.  The draft hood which is situated on the top of the hot water tank provides sufficient air for stable and proper gas combustion.
• When you open the hot water tap for the purpose of washing the dishes or taking a shower, the hot water is drawn from the top of the unit, through plumbing to the open hot water faucet.
• The TPR or the temperature pressure relief valve prevents extreme pressure from occurring in the tank, thus helping the excessive air or water to get out.
• For tank flushing and draining, there is a drain valve present at the tank bottom.
• Inside of the water heater tank, the sacrificial anode is used in order to prevent corrosion due to the water heating process.

With all the points mentioned above, it is now much easier to perform gas hot water heater troubleshooting.  In this regard, please take note that the troubleshooting methods that will be presented here are assuming only that the gas water heater was properly installed and was functioning correctly before any problems occurred.

Also, do take note that the hot water heater problems and troubleshooting tips stated below are related exclusively to the tank-type water heaters.  Keep in mind that in order to perform proper troubleshooting in gas water heaters, you need to have basic gas and electrical knowhow.

Gas Water Heater Troubleshooting Tips

Gas water heater problem #1:  No hot water

Solution and How to Repair:

Do check if you still have gas in your home or to the water heater unit.  The main gas valve may be closed.  If you suddenly experience no hot water, then your water usage may have exceeded the tank capacity.  If that is the case, then wait for the water heater to recover.

Another possible cause to this no hot water problem is that the pilot light has gone out.  Re-light the pilot flame according to the instructions stated on the unit.  If it won’t light up, then you need a new thermocouple.

Gas water heater problem #2:  Sooting

Solution and How to Repair:

When the gas water heater is running and you notice that both the chamber and flue have soot in them, even if the burner is still clean, do check out if there is a lack of air.  If in case all of these elements have soot in them, check for the following if present: excessive gas pressure, a wrong orifice might be used, there is loose gas burner or there is a loose gas connection in the burner assembly.

If in case the pilot flame or main burner flames are too small or too large, you may have dirt in the orifice or in the gas supply tubing, or the unit might have the incorrect orifice size.  Do follow the user’s manual for the right specs.

Gas water heater problem #3:  Condensation

When gas is burning, the flue gas cools to its “dew point”, resulting in condensation which can go back to the gas chamber.

What causes the flue gases to cool are: cold air supply and cool flue pipe surface.  This usually happens whenever a new water heater unit is filled with cold water for the first time around.

Also, condensation occurs if there is a large amount of hot water used in a short period of time and when the incoming water is very cold.

Another possible reason for condensation is the increased combustion efficiency, typically when above 87.5% of the flue heat is transferred to the surrounding water.

The signs/symptoms when condensation occurs are: water is still present around the heater even after its operation; there is water dripping, there are small black and red spots on the gas burner as well as on top of the heater and vent piping (which is the very reason why PVC or more expensive stainless steel vent pipes are used); when condensation occurs, you can hear a sizzling or frying noise on the burner.

• Solution and How to Repair:
• Raise the supply air temperature, the stored water temperature, or even its tank size (which makes sense if in case the existing unit is too old and poorly performing).

Gas water heater problem #4:  Lack of oxygen

For proper operation of gas water heaters, fresh air has to be delivered for gas combustion.  The air must enter the gas chamber from the base of the unit and then enter the flue vent from below the draft hood.

In case there is insufficient air flowing, potential problems may arise such as: yellow burner flame, sooting burner flame, pilot light outage, possible presence of carbon monoxide, and presence of a burnt gas smell in the room.

• Solution and How to Repair:
• The solution for this is in prevention – Check and make sure to provide enough air flow.  Check the flue vent and the base of the water heater unit for possible obstructions, and never cover it with an insulation blanket.

Gas water heater problem #5:  The burner won’t stay lit

Possible causes:

• Dirty of clogged air intake
• High ambient room temperature
• The flame arrestor openings are blocked

Gas water heater problem #6:  The pilot light won’t light up or stay lit

Solution and How to Repair:

Check out if there is gas present or if the gas pressure is low.  In case there is a problem with the gas supply, call the utility company.

If there is air present in the gas line, bleed the air from the gas line (this should be done by a certified professional).

When trying to light up the pilot, ensure that the pilot light lever is open.

In case the pilot tube or orifice is clogged up, clean it.  If the thermocouple connection is loose with the gas valve or in the pilot light assembly bracket, simply tighten it with a wrench.  It may only need a simple adjustment.

The thermocouple needs to be properly secured and must be in contact with the pilot flame.  In case it is broken, replace it.  If you have a melted insulation on an igniter wire or there is a shorting of the igniter wire, replace it as well.

Take note that if the pilot light goes out sporadically, the following might be the cause of the problem: insufficient combustion air supply, condensation might be extinguishing the pilot light, inconsistent gas supply and pressure, or clogged or incorrect venting system.

Gas Water Heater Troubleshooting – Checking the Vent System

The venting system is extremely vital for the safety and efficiency of water heater operation.  The 90-degree elbow that is installed on the top of the tank draft hood can potentially minimize the vent efficiency by up to 50%.  It is advised that you install the vent system that rises straight up.  For horizontal vent pipes, there are some different installation rules that need to be followed (in that case, use the manufacturer’s manual for more information).

Another reason why the pilot flame will fail is because of decompression.  If air cannot enter as quickly as it is being used, the air pressure drops just below the outside pressure.  Therefore, it creates an effect known as “capping”.

The solution for this decompression issue is to simply create 2 air vents on the outside wall, one close to the ceiling and the other close to the ground level.  If you cannot do this, and the room is on the balcony for instance, provide appropriate venting opening on the door.

Take note that when you perform gas water heater troubleshooting and repairs on your own, ensure that the gas supply is turned off and always refer to the user manual.

Both gas and electric water heating residential appliances will contain at least one thermostat in order to operate the heater and one high limit switch in order to protect the unit from any excessive temperature.

For different applications, different hot water temperatures are needed.  The hot water is normally needed for showers, clothes washing, dishwashing, etc. and these day-to-day activities are some of the reasons why you use a hot water heater thermostat, in order to set and/or adjust the temperature.

Generally, the temperature range on both gas and electric water heaters differs, but one common thing about them is that they both have thermostats that are factory pre-set, which is usually at 120 F, so as to protect its users from hot scalding water.

It is very important to know that if an individual is exposed to hot water of about 120 F or 49 C, it takes more than 5 minutes to experience burns; if about 130 F, it takes less than 30 seconds; and if the temperature is about 160 F, it takes less than a second to experience burns.

Take note that there are some ways on how to protect yourself and others from accidental burns.  Simply install temperature-limiting valves that connect to faucets in order to limit or restrict hot water, or install a mixing valve in order to minimize the hot water temperature, by means of mixing hot and cold water.

Hot Water Heater Thermostats on Gas Appliances

On gas water heaters, when the incoming cold water activates the thermostat, the gas then flows to the main burner.  By the time the water inside the tank reaches the set temperature, the thermostat then interrupts the gas flow to the main burner.

The residential gas water heaters normally operate within a temperature range of 80 F to 160 F wherein the high-limit safety device opens at about 195 F (on the AO Smith, for instance).

Do remember that even if the thermostat is set to 120 F, the heater may potentially shut off at about 110 or 130 F.  This is due to the fact that the unit depends on the accuracy (+/-10 F tolerance) of the metal rod that is immersed inside of the tank to measure the temperature.

Hot water heater thermostats on gas appliances are actually part of the gas control valve assembly.  The thermostat knob is typically situated at the front of the gas valve.  Its purpose is to control the water temperature and during the process of lighting the pilot and the main burner.  The temperature dial possesses markings, and by turning it counterclockwise, you can increase the temperature setting.

Prior to performing any maintenance on your gas water heater, do remember to turn the temperature dial on its lowest setting.

Take note that the lowest thermostat setting is highly recommended to use during low-demand circumstances.  This way, you can reduce your energy losses during cold days and this also prevents the tank from freezing.

Hot Water Heater Thermostats on Electric Appliances

Electric water heaters are normally equipped with 2 adjustable thermostats, one on each heating element (in case the water heater has two).

The temperature range on residential electric water heater units is normally from 90 F to 150 F with a high limit of about 170 F.  The high-limit switch (ECO) is situated in the exact same place as that of the upper thermostat, has a manual reset (for instance, the AO Smith) and it is meant to shut down the unit if extremely high water temperature occurs (in this case, above 170 F).

The electric water heater thermostats are surface mounted, normally installed into a bracket which holds the element against the side of the tank.  The thermostat’s back surface is in full contact with the tank, thus it responds to the tank surface’s temperature change.

When you are adjusting the thermostat on your electric hot water heater, it is advised that you set both thermostats to about the exact same temperature, or simply set the top element to a slightly lower temperature, so the bottommost element activates first.

How to set the temperature of the water heater via thermostat adjustment

Below are the steps on how to properly change the temperature setting on electric water heaters:

• Only adjust the thermostat on an electric water heater when the power is off.  Disconnect all power sources to the water heater by means of opening the switch on the fuse box or the main circuit breaker.
• Take out the access panel, cover and fold the insulation away from the controls in order to clear the way to the controls.
• With the screwdriver, rotate the adjustment knob to the desired position (temperature).
• Put back the cover, access panel and insulation.  Turn on the electrical supply and the water heater.

How to replace thermostats on electric water heaters

A thermostat is not that expensive, which is why fixing a thermostat on a hot water heater is not actually recommended. Below are steps on how to replace a thermostat on an electric water heater:

• Turn off the electric power of the water heater.
• Take off the front panel door and then fold up the insulation pad.
• Unclip the thermostat from its bracket.
• Disconnect the wires from the thermostat.  For proper re-connection to the new element, do label the wires.
• Take out the water heater thermostat.
• Install the new thermostat into the bracket.
• Connect the wires to the thermostat.
• Set the thermostat to the original temperature setting.
• Put back the removed elements.
• Turn on the power to the water heater.

It is highly advised that you check, clean or replace the heating elements as well.  When going to bring the thermostat back, ensure that it stays firmly against the tank surface.  Inside the access cover, you will find a wire diagram.  Use that to properly reconnect the wires to the thermostat.

If in case your electric water heater has two heating elements and two thermostats,  keep in mind that the lower ones will operate more frequently, have more chances of exposure to lime buildup, and tend to fail more often than the upper ones.

When on the lookout for water heater thermostats, it is crucial to know the voltage of the water heater or the heating element.  You can easily find it on the back of the element or on the main energy guide label.

Closing Thoughts

One of the primary problems concerning water heater thermostats are: when the hot water is set too low, the hot water is set to a too high temperature, and when there is no hot water at all.

The reasons behind these problems are actually simple – the thermostat is set either too low or too high.  If in case there is no hot water coming out, then that means either the thermostat is not working or the high temperature limit switch turned the unit off.  If in case you are experiencing running water heating with high operation costs, or if the thermostat fails to shut off, all you need to do is to simply replace the water heater thermostat.

The water heater control gas valve is designed to have a built-in safety shut-off mechanism that closes the supply to the burner and the pilot light if in case the pilot light is put out for any reason.  The electrode or thermocouple is responsible for sending the signal.

Types of Water Heater Gas Valves

There are many types of water heater gas valves.  Some of the water heater manufacturers such as Bradford White, AO Smith, and American Heater Company are utilizing Robertshaw and White-Rodgers gas control valves while some manufacturers are utilizing Honeywell gas control valves.

The Robertshaw water heater gas control valve has the following components:

• Gas control valve with the safety valve, thermostat valve and electromagnet
• Reset button
• Control knob with ON-OFF pilot settings
• Inlet and outlet
• Water temperature dial and setting indicator
• Thermocouple threaded port
• Pilot tube threaded port
• Thermal switch

The White-Rodgers water heater gas control valve has the following components:

• Gas control valve with the safety valve, thermostat valve and electromagnet
• Control knob with ON-OFF pilot settings
• Inlet and outlet
• Water temperature dial and setting indicator
• High limit or temperature probe
• Thermocouple threaded port
• Pilot tube threaded port
• Thermal switch

Review on Water Heater Gas Valve Components

There are some valves which are equipped with the manifold gas pressure tap wherein you can measure the pressure on the line supplying the main burner.  You only have to remove the plug and then attach the gas gage.  The recommended pressure is actually marked on the water heater gas valve.

Both the tube from the main burner and the pilot light tube are connected to the gas valve as well as the thermocouple which is used as the safety element.  The unit typically works on a 24 VAC, but it could also work without the presence of outside electricity.

The temperature setting indicator, which is installed on the front of the gas valve, lets you choose the right hot water temperature setting.  The temperature is usually factory set on its lowest setting in order to comply with the safety regulations.  On some control valves, namely the Robertshaw, there is a “HOT” mark that shows where the 120 F temperature or scalding water range starts.

The pilot burner is lit by means of switching the control knob to the pilot setting, or by pressing the reset button if you have a Robertshaw gas valve, and pressing the piezo igniter button.  There are some water heater units wherein you need to manually use a match in order to ignite the pilot burner.

When the pilot burner is lit, the pilot flame will then heat the thermocouple that generates a small electric current which is sufficient enough to keep the gas valve open.  Thus, when you release the knob, the gas will still continue to flow to the pilot.

Afterwards, the incoming cold water will activate the thermostat, which initiates the water heater gas valve to open to the burner.  The pilot light then ignites the gas on the main burner.  The hot water temperature rises and when it reaches the set temperature, the thermostat interrupts the main flow.

There are two metal probes which are mounted onto the back of the gas valve and immersed inside of the tank.

The longer temperature probe has a metal rod or Energy Cut Off (ECO) switch which expands and contracts as the water temperature changes.  The probe sort of acts as the temperature high limit.  If in case the water gets excessively hot, a sensor within the probe opens, and then interrupts the small electrical current to the gas valve, and thus the flow is interrupted.

Do take note that the control valve, if subjected to an excessive pressure of over 0.5 psi, can potentially damage the valve and could result in the explosion from the leaking gas.

The manual shut off valve in the gas supply line must be installed along with the sediment trap or drip leg in order to prevent foreign materials such as dirt coming into the control valve.  In order to allow for easier service, a ground joint union or flexible pipe between the shut off and water heater gas valve must be installed.

Do take note that if for any reason the water heater fails to shut down, namely due to overheating, you must always manually turn off the water heater gas control valve.

Steps on How to Remove and Replace the Water Heater Gas Valve

When you need to replace your water heater gas valve, make it a point to use factory-authorized replacement parts only.  Do take extra care when working on the gas valve.  Do not use a pipe wrench or any other similar tool to grip the body, and most of all, do not apply too much force because it might damage the element.  The removal and replacement of the water heater gas valve typically involves gas piping and electrical wiring disconnection.  Below are the steps for gas valve replacement on water heaters:

• Turn off the manual shut-off valve on the gas line.  This is normally situated just beside the water heater.
• On the gas control valve, turn the thermostat to its lowest setting.
• After that, turn off the electrical power.
• Turn the control knob to the OFF position.
• If the situation calls for it, drain the water heater.
• Disconnect the pilot tube, thermocouple, main tube and piezo
• Disconnect the ground joint union as well as other connections from the gas control valve.
• Lastly, remove the gas valve assembly.

When you are replacing the water water gas valve, ensure to match the parts and simply follow the steps above in reverse order.  Utilize approved Teflon tape or compound on all of the connections.  Do not forget to check for gas valve leaks by using soap-water solution.

Below are some common problems with tankless water heaters and tips on how to troubleshoot them:

Tankless Water Heater Problem #1:  No ignition (The burner does not ignite when hot water tap is open)

• Make sure that the fuses in the control are okay.
• In order to prevent problems with the water heater, make sure that the unit is properly grounded.
• Proper gas pressure that comes to your tankless water heater must be provided.
• Make sure that the gas valve really opens.
• Check if the flow sensor works fine.
• An inlet filter might be clogged and dirty.  Simply clean it.
• Check for the right cold and hot water installation.  Ensure that the lines are not installed in reverse order.

Tankless Water Heater Problem #2:  Flame failure

• Check if proper venting is installed.
• The length of the vent must be within limits as specified by the manufacturer.
• Make sure that the proper voltage is within normal limits.

Tankless Water Heater Problem #3:  Temperature fluctuates

• Make sure that there are no restrictions in the flow such as faucet aerators and clogged shower heads.
• Clean the filter if it is filthy.
• Make sure that the water pressure does not fluctuate.
• Check for plumbing crossover.

Tankless Water Heater Problem #4:  Overheating and thermal fuse failure

Tankless water heaters utilize temperature sensors in order to protect the heater from overheating as well as exceeding the maximum acceptable temperature on the heat exchanger.

• The sensor is dirty. Clean it.
• There is a low flow inside the heat exchanger.
• There is a presence of foreign materials inside the vent and the combustion chamber. Clean it.
• The heat exchanger might be clogged. Unclog it.
• The air flow around the heater and the vent terminal is blocked. Find out the cause of the blockage and get rid of it.

Tankless Water Heater Problem #5:  Water is too hot

• The selected temperature on your tankless water heater might be too high.  Simply select the lower temperature setting.
• The inlet filter could be dirty – just clean it.
• Ensure that there are no waterpath obstructions, including shower heads or faucet aerators
• Temperature sensors might be loose – ensure that the sensors are firmly mounted and are really making contact.

Tankless Water Heater Problem #6:  Water is not hot enough

• The selected temperature on your tankless water heater might be too low.  Simply select the higher temperature setting.
• If the running water is cold, just increase the flow so the minimum required pressure is met.  Do keep in mind that you will not immediately feel the hot water as it takes some time for hot water to reach the tap.  Remember that the longer the distance between the tankless water heater unit and your fixture, the longer it gets for the hot water to reach there.
• Make sure that the temperature sensors are firmly mounted on the pipes and are making contact.

Other Tankless Water Heater Problems You Might Encounter

If you experience low water pressure or flow, then it may indicate that you could possibly have too many hot water applications that are running simultaneously.  Greater draw will normally result in the increased drop in pressure.  Another cause for low flow may be that there is a dirty cold water inlet screen present.

In case your water heater freezes during the cold winter days, the heat exchanger could possibly burst.  This is the reason why gas and electricity needs to be supplied so that the freeze protection can activate.  Another solution for this is to install the auto drain down the solenoid valves.

How to Prevent Tankless Water Heater Problems

Regular and yearly inspection as well as periodic maintenance is necessary in order to keep your tankless water heater unit running and performing well.  The water heating system and unit parts must be inspected at least once per year in order to minimize the chances for tankless water heater problems.

• Do inspect the venting system.
• Do clean the burner, circulating air passageways and the control compartments.
• Do keep the fan and motor free from dirt and dust.
• Do a visual inspection of the flame to make sure that it burns with a blue, clean and stable flame and see if it burns evenly on the whole surface of the burner.
• Flush the heat exchanger using a descaling solution in case the mineral buildup is evident.
• Do keep the area around the vent exhaust free from ice and snow.

Take note that there are some prolonged activities that are done by certain heater elements such as when the fan continues to run even after you turn off the hot water tap.  This is actually a normal phenomenon and it only lasts for a short period of time to make sure that every residual product of combustion is thoroughly vented out.

Another frequent problem or complaint which is absolutely normal in tankless water heater operation is the white smoke that comes out of the exhaust.  This is typically normal during the cold season, when the exhaust fume temperature is very much hotter than the air outside, since the fume consists of lots of condenses and water vapor.

It is actually good to know as well that sometimes safety features would be triggered, and these are not caused by the tankless water heater problems as mentioned above.  There are times that the tankless water heater unit will possibly stop operating under situations such as:

• Flame failure – the water heater will shut down in case the flame is out.
• Overheating – the water heater unit will automatically shut down if the appliance exceeds a predetermined temperature level.
• Blown fuse – the fuse will tend to blow if there overcurrent takes place.
• Power failure – in case the appliance loses power, the safety feature built in it will instantly cut the gas off.
• Fusible link – the fusible link will tend to break if extreme temperature levels occur.

Note:  This is a guide written most especially for those who need to know about troubleshooting electric water heaters with 30, 40, 50-gallon capacity and also larger ones, meant for residential use.

The Electric Water Heater – Its Elements and How They Work

When you get to know the basic elements of an electric water heater and how they work, it would be much easier for you to perform electric water heater troubleshooting.  Assuming that the electric water heater was properly installed and was functioning correctly prior to any occurrence of problems, below are some of the typical electric water heater elements you need to become familiar with:

• The cold water from house plumbing goes into the heater tank, through the dip tube and then fills the tank from the bottom up.
• The upper thermostat with the pre-set temperature calls for heating and then turns on the upper heating element in order to heat the water.
• Water gets warmer and by the time it reaches the set temperature, the top thermostat switches the power on to the bottom thermostat and then it applies power on the bottom heating element until it reaches the set temperature.
• Once you open the tap when doing dishes or going for a shower, the hot water is drawn from the topmost part of the unit, through plumbing to the opened faucet.
• If the hot water at the top of the water heater tank is too high, the red button will actually trip and then cut the power to both heating elements.
• There is a sacrificial anode rod inside the heater tank which prevents corrosion due to the heating process.  It is actually replaceable.
• The temperature relief valve or TPR valve prevents extreme pressure from occurring inside the tank, helping the excessive water or air to come out.
• For tank flushing or draining, there is a drain valve present at the bottom part of the tank.

Keep in mind that the problems and troubleshooting tips mentioned above are exclusively for electric water heaters that are tank type.  Also, in order to safely troubleshoot an electric water heater, you should have basic electrical knowledge.

How to Troubleshoot Your Electric Water Heater – Troubleshooting Tips

Electric Water Heater Troubleshooting:  Problem #1 – No Hot Water

In order to solve this problem of having no hot water, first of all, check if there is power present.  The main switch might be turned off.  If suddenly you have no hot water, then maybe your water usage have exceeded the tank capacity.  If that is what happened, simply wait for the heater to recover.

Another sound solution might be to press the red reset button located on the upper thermostat.  If 10 minutes has passed and you still do not have hot water, then check if there is electricity being delivered to the appliance.  Check the heater’s pair of circuit breaker in the breaker panel.  If the breakers are on, verify if there is a voltage by using the voltage tester, at the input terminals of the upper heating element.  If you find out that there is no voltage, the thermostat has to be replaced.  If there is voltage present, then the heating elements need to be replaced.

Other probable culprits of having no hot water in your electric water heater might be as follows:

• Shorted wiring – just do some rewiring
• Circuit overload – reduce the load or provide adequate circuitry
• Improper wiring – rewire as per the wiring diagram found in the user manual
• Heat buildup because of loose wiring – just tighten the wire connections
• Grounded thermostat or element – just do some rewiring
• Defective high-limit switch – just replace

Electric Water Heater Troubleshooting:  Problem #2 – Higher-pitched Whining

When the electrical heating elements of an electric water heater are used many times for months to years, and the water condition in your home and area plumbing is hard water, it will then cause a major buildup of lime or scale deposits and even other mineral sediments on the electrical heating elements.

A very good solution to this problem is to perform some preventive maintenance and make it a habit to flush your electric water heater regularly.  To do this, remove and clean the heating elements from the scale buildup.  If there is no improvement to your water heater’s performance, then you may need to replace them.

Another good solution is to install some low-watt density heating elements that have a bigger contact surface in order for them to transfer heat to the water more efficiently.

Electric Water Heater Troubleshooting:  Problem #3 – Slow Recovery Time, It Takes Too Long for the Water Heater to Reheat the Water

In case your electric water heater was running for quite a long time, chances are that there is insufficient hot water available for your shower.  If you notice that this is happening very often, then you might have an undersized electric water heater.  Depending on its recovery rate, you have no choice but to wait for a moment for your water to be reheated.

Another probable cause of this might be that the thermostat is set too low, especially in the wintertime and in a cold room, wherein the most obvious solution would be to simply increase the temperature, but not too high because extremely hot water can lead to burns and scalding.

Also, your lower thermostat or lower heating element might be becoming faulty or defective, so you need to replace them.

Improper and loose wiring or the thermostat may not be installed the proper way.

If there is scale formed on the heating elements due to the hard water action, what would most likely happen is that the contact surface between the fully immersed elements and water will decrease and therefore, it needs to be cleaned.

How to Fix a Water Hammer Problem

Water hammer is considered to be the most common home plumbing problem that can be recognized as a banging, thumping and pounding noise.  It could also signify that there is a very serious problem going on that can definitely affect the performance and safety of your water heater.

Typically, this kind of noise problem happens when water moves through the plumbing and the outlet valve is suddenly or abruptly closed, thus resulting in vibration along the pipeline.  Because of the sudden or abrupt change in pressure and the shockwave, the pipes will then usually hit against the house’s framing, which in turn creates a banging, thumping, or pounding noise.

After the water is stopped suddenly, the high-intensity pressure wave that was made will then travel backward and forward, between the point of relief and the point where the stop is, until it dissipates in the plumbing system.

Please keep in mind that even a new water heater can still have water hammer issues.

The Problem – Water Hammer

Actually, the problem with water hammer is not only limited to the annoying banging, thumping or pounding noise, but also it has a destructive nature for plumbing and fittings as well as your entire heating unit.  The high-intensity pressure wave created in plumbing can reach over 60 times.

As mentioned earlier, the excess buildup of pressure in the plumbing system then goes from the pipeline into the tank heater, where permanent deformation will occur.  Usually, the shell of the tank will expand, and by measuring the circumference at different locations along the tank, you will definitely see and comprehend how serious the situation is.

When water hammer occurs, the high pressure that is in the heating system and the pipes banging against the framing members could potentially cause the unstable plumbing system.

For instance, the flue tube that is installed on a gas-powered water heater on one side, and through the wall on the other, may very well collapse.  With deformed vent, flue gases will not be able to find their way out, which of course will cause the flame and gas combustion to spill out from the combustion chamber.

The Solution – Water Hammer

The solution for water hammer problem, which is sometimes requested by a local code, is installing the arrestor.

The arrestor is designed in a way that works much like expansion tanks, with a diaphragm to separate the air chamber from the water in the plumbing system.  The air acts like a cushion, which absorbs the shockwave from the excessive pressure buildup.

You need to find out the source of the shockwave in order for you to install the arrestor close to where it is occurring.

Another solution would be to use an expansion tank or pressure-only relief valve that works like a sacrificial valve to deal with abnormal pressures.

One effective solution for noisy pipes is to design the plumbing pipes properly and replacing the undersized pipes with larger ones.  In the case of an already-existing plumbing system, just wrap the insulation around pipes in order to minimize the rattling noise and then secure the loose ones if any.

Hint:  Should there be any damage on the tank heater because of water hammer issues, the manufacturer is not liable for warranty compensation.

A very common and frequently asked question among consumers is: “Why is my water heater making unusual noises?  How can I tell if it is caused by water hammer, noisy pipes or something else?”  Actually, plumbing is not always the “guilty” one for making different kinds of noises that you can hear whenever you are running a water heater, a dishwasher or a washing machine.  Normally, the rattling sounds may come from a defective seat washer, even if the tap is barely open.  When it comes to a moaning or chattering sound, it may be caused by a buildup of high pressure.  As for ticking noises, it occurs when you open a hot tap and then hot water suddenly runs through the cool hot water pipe.  It may also be caused by the copper pipe that expands due to the high water temperature.

Probably the most common cause of ticking noises and water hammer is if in case your sink or shower and bathtub is utilizing only a single lever faucet or due to washing machine and dishwasher’s automatic solenoid valves.  Sometimes, a simple change of a defective seat washer is the only effective solution.

How to Remove Mineral (Lime) Sediments and Rust Buildup in Your Water Heater

Typically, residues that occur in almost every water heater tank are the result of mineral (particularly lime) buildup and rust.  Sedimentation is considered to be one of the most common problems that can surely affect your water heater’s performance, reduce the output, shorten its tank life, and make your water heater work even harder which means you consume more electricity.  Rust deposits, for instance, are the end result of the aggressive water action, when the tank starts to corrode, often due to lack or failed rust protective elements such as anode rod or metal tank lining.  There are times that the problem with sediment buildup is so severe, thus making the tank hard to clean or it’s not even worth cleaning anymore.  Therefore, purchasing a new electric or gas water heater is necessary.

How can you tell if it is time to flush and clean unwanted deposits from the tank?  The common symptoms with water scale deposits are: low performance, inefficient heating, or unusual noises such as crackling, rumbling, pounding and popping sounds.

When hot water is trapped under lime scale deposits and because of its porous nature, you will hear popping noises, or even sizzling noises (as the hot water boils to steam) when water is trapped next to the heating elements.  Even if the noise disappears because of the change in water scale structure, this does not mean that flushing the tank is not needed anymore.  Thus, be wary that your tank or its heating elements may fail to work.

In every home plumbing system, sediments form as the result of lime buildup.  Lime buildup increases when water is heated; same goes when temperature and water hardness increases and especially when there is higher usage and increased heating surface occurring.  De-liming is then considered a necessity and it has to be included in the regular maintenance and service of your water heater.  As soon as you hear strange noises inside the water heater, you must act quickly.  Deposits are typically oftentimes loose and they are very easy to remove.  If you wait any longer, then the water scale will harden and thus it will make it tougher for you to remove.

Hint: The best way to avoid sediment buildup in your water heater is by subjecting it to regular maintenance, especially by doing some periodic flushing.

One of the most common solutions in order to get rid of lime scale deposits from the tank-type water heater is to dissolve the residue and then flush it using a delimer such as phosphoric acid.

Another common solution is to scrape the sediments manually, but this is time consuming and it will be quite hard to clean the water heater entirely.

Last but not least, by setting the hot water temperature lower, you can reduce the formation of lime scale deposits, and by installing a softener, you can greatly reduce the hardness of water.

Most of the times, homeowners and their family members tend to ignore the maintenance of their water heater at home, and the only time they will pay attention to it is when it starts to make some unusual noises.  A noisy water heater in a residential area can have a number of common problems depending on the noise it makes such as rumbling, pounding, ticking, etc.

Water heater noises are typically associated with two major conditions – water hammer and mineral buildup.  Unfortunately, there are also other reasons why a water heater could become noisy over time.

It is fairly common to experience the irritating noise that your water heater creates after a short period of service.  Even if your water heater is installed in an area away from your living room or bedroom, you might still hear some kind of noise in the plumbing that travels with vibration waves from the water heater.

The irritating noises, for example, can originate either from the gas water heater because of the droplets on the crusty formations and sediments, or it is associated with the hissing sound created by the electric units and formation of lime scale on the immersed heating elements of the water heater.

There are 6 common types of noises that a water heater makes which may indicate that there is something wrong with it:

1.  Pounding Noise

You may be wondering why your water heater is making an awful pounding noise.  The two major causes of a pounding noise coming from your water heater are water hammer and mineral buildup.

When water is freely flowing through the plumbing system and then it is stopped abruptly, what will happen is that the high intensity shock wave tends to travel through the pipeline, which in turn makes some vibrations in the piping system, and then followed by a sort of banging, thumping and pounding noise.

The pounding noise could be associated with the occurrence of water hammer.

The pounding noise could also occur due to lime formations and sediments that settle at the bottom of the tank.  In order to eradicate the noise, some professionals would most likely recommend installing a water softener, or occasionally flushing out the system.

2.  Ticking Noise

The ticking noise coming from your water heater is usually caused by a fluctuation in pressure inside the piping system.  If your water heater is an energy-efficient unit, then the odds are that it has heat traps that are installed.  Because of the temperature change as well as the expansion and contraction of the heating elements, the heat trap ball is rattling in the nipple.

If there is no other way to get rid of the ticking noise, you may try removing the heat traps from the water heater.  Be aware that there will be only a small reduction in its energy efficiency, but it will surely not affect the safety of the water heater’s operation.

One other possible reason for the ticking sound may be that it comes from the plumbing pipes, and this may be due to expanding and contracting against a loose-fitting strap or wood framing while making a hot water draw.  One of the simple solutions would be to track down where the ticking noise is the loudest, and then try to secure the pipe or install some plastic spacers.

The simplest solution when it comes to ticking noises is to turn the temperature on your water heater just a few more degrees down.

3.  Rumbling Noise

One of the main causes of a rumbling noise coming out of your water heater is the aluminum hydroxide gel inside it, whereas mineral buildup could also be an underlying factor.  The aluminum hydroxide gel is actually the result of the chemical reaction between the water condition and the anode rod.

Aluminum hydroxide gel can either be blue, gray or green gel beads that tend to accumulate in the water heater drain or in faucet aerators as well.

There are two simple ways on how to solve this rumbling noise in your water heater:

1. If your water heater is fairly new and there is no lime buildup yet, you can simply turn the water heater off, remove the anode rod and then flush the system thoroughly.  After that, bring the anode back and turn on the water heater.
2. If your water heater already has lime buildup in it, you may then use one of the recommended de-limers (such as phosphoric acid or maybe you could ask one from the manufacturer) and then follow the correct procedure for flushing out the deposits.

4.  Sizzling Noise

The sizzling noise coming out of your gas water heater may primarily be due to condensation and/or a leaking problem – when there are drops of water dripping down the flame in the burner or any other hot surface.

Condensation is typically created when the hot flue gases come in contact with cooler surfaces.  Condensation forms inside the vent and drops of water will hit a hot surface every few seconds, and that makes the sizzling noise.  It can be seen by means of looking into the combustion chamber where the flame will first grow very bright and then very dim afterwards.

Condensation must stop when the whole heater is heated at over 115 F. If the problem is due to leakage, then locating and repairing or even replacing the leaking element or tightening the loose fittings, is the most common solution.

When you own a gas water heater, the sizzling noise is considered to be a normal sign because natural gas has a very high moisture content.

When it comes to electric water heaters, the sizzling noise may come from the heating elements, due to lime scale formation, and water that is trapped next to the element will also make the sizzling noise, when the boiling water becomes steam.

5.  Popping and Crackling Noises

The popping and crackling noises are typically caused by water that is trapped under the lime deposits.  Lime (CaCO3) that is present in the water heater is normally the result of water hardness, and it is usually present in almost every home plumbing, more or less.  As you heat up the water more and because of the water heater’s prolonged usage in the excessive hardness environment, more lime is created.

The solution for the popping and crackling noises made by your water heater due to lime buildup is very simple.  You only have to flush out the water heater with the proper acidic compound such as a de-limer recommended by the manufacturer.

If the flow of water is abruptly stopped, it can also cause the popping and crackling noise.

Another possible reason for the crackling sound coming out of your water heater may be that condensation is dripping on the burner or any other hot part’s surface.

Closing Thoughts

Noise coming from your water heater can be minimized by disconnecting the heater as well as doing a regular flushing, which is the most common solution to these irritating noises. If the water in your area is too hard, you may want to consider installing a water softener, but of course, do consider a negative influence on the anode rod.

Storage Tank Water Heaters – these water heaters are the most common types and they are the types used in a lot of households all across the United States and Canada.  Perhaps the reason behind their popularity is that they are the most affordable to both buy and install.  This type of water heating system heats and stores the heated water on a tank so it will be available for use when needed.  The main advantage of this water heating system is that it can store large amounts of heated water continuously.  Of course, storing hot water does have its disadvantages as the heated water will eventually cool down.  This makes it necessary for the unit to reheat the water to the desired preset level once it reaches a certain temperature; something which inevitably costs money as heating consumes energy.  Having extra insulation will help prevent the fast cooling down of the heated water.  On average, a typical storage tank water heater will last you around 10 years.  A specific model may use electric, gas, or oil as its main heating element.  Gas-fired models may cost more to buy and install as compared to electric models.  Then again, if you compare operating cost and the savings you get from using gas instead of electricity, the savings you get with your utility bills may be well worth it in the long run.  The main issue with storage tank units is that they require regular maintenance in order to prevent the buildup of scale and lime inside the tank.  This kind of buildup will make the unit inefficient, making it work harder and consume much more energy in comparison to a regularly maintained unit.  Flushing the unit every 6 months will help to prevent such buildup.

Tankless Water Heaters – also known as instantaneous water heaters or on-demand water heaters, these water heating systems have rid the use of storage tanks.  Instead, they heat water only when it is needed thus eliminating any standby heat loss or the need for any tank insulation.  These types of water heaters are very efficient and cost effective since they heat water only when hot water is needed.  In addition, since they no longer use any storage tanks, owners will be able to save valuable household space.  Perhaps the best thing about tankless water heaters is that they are most likely to last longer than storage tank types.  In fact, if you maintain your tankless unit properly, it is likely to last you from 15 to 20 years.  This is likely the reason why manufacturers offer longer warranties for them.  Another thing that makes tankless-types water heaters the units to consider is that they are very easy to repair when compared to other types of water heating units.  The truth is there are basically two types of tankless water heating units –
the whole house type and the point-of-use type.  Whole house units, as the name suggests, are large enough to accommodate the hot water usage of a whole household.  Point-of-use units on the other hand are small units that are commonly installed near the area where they will be used.  There are even times they are used along with other water heating units to help raise the

temperature, particularly in households where a lot of hot water taps are turned on
simultaneously and the main water heating unit is not able to cope up with the demand.  Perhaps the main disadvantage with this type of water heating unit is that it takes some time before it reaches the hot water temperature you require for showering.  Another disadvantage it has is that when multiple hot water taps are opened simultaneously, the hot water it is able to provide dissipates as it will be providing hot water for multiple taps.

Solar Water Heaters – for people living in warm areas or areas where the sun shines bright most times of the year, a solar water heater can be the most cost effective way to enjoy hot showers.  Since solar energy is free, having a solar water heater will alleviate any additional cost in your utility bills used for water heating.  In fact, a solar water heater can provide nearly 70% of the hot water requirements of a typical household while the return of investment can happen in just five to seven years.  A solar water heating system basically works by storing hot water on insulated tanks and different solar water heating systems use different ways to heat water.  There are generally two types of solar water heaters – active and passive.  Active solar water heating systems uses either heat-transfer fluid (indirect) or allows water to circulate through the collector and heat exchanger (direct) in order to heat water.  Passive solar water heating systems on the other hand has a storage tank atop the solar collectors.  Once water is heated by the collectors, the heated water will go up the tank while the cold water that goes to the bottom will have its turn to be heated.  Depending on how a solar water heater is utilized, it is likely to cost less in the long run.  While it is true that the initial investment may be quite high, but the overall savings you get from using free energy will definitely offset the price you paid initially.

Integrated Space and Water Heating System – this is a type of combination heating system that heats both air-space and water.  For new homes on areas with cool climates, this may be a practical investment as only a single boiler will be used for heating both water and the inside space of the home.  The system works by heating water in an external storage tank.  The heat is then collected by fans and coils to be distributed inside the home as warm air.

These days, there are many types of water heating models available in the market.  Many of them make use of different heating elements and setups to facilitate the heating of water.  The most popular type of water heating system is perhaps the electric water heater as it is the most affordable type.  Despite not being on the high end of technology when it comes to water heating and energy saving, the electric water heating system is still very popular because it is very robust and works like it should.  Gas and propane water heaters on the other hand are on the bit more expensive side.  Then again, they also use only use cheap energy resources thus providing savings on monthly utility bills.

A factor that can create a big difference on both the durability and efficiency of the unit would be the type of system utilized for the heating element.  The traditional storage tank water heaters are slowly being superseded by better and more efficient tankless water heating systems. These tankless water heating systems do not occupy a lot of space when installed since they don’t have any storage tank.  In addition, they also do not waste energy due to the constant heating-up of the water inside the tank just to maintain the preset water temperature as they only start to heat up the water when hot water is desired.  Heat pumps water heating systems are also becoming popular with homeowners.  They take heat from the environment and use it to heat the water – a clever yet effective strategy, one that can provide homeowners lots of savings in terms of energy and utility bills.  For people who are residing in warm or hot regions, a solar water heating system might just be the perfect unit for them.  Since it uses the heat of the sun, which is free, to heat the water, the homeowners do not have to pay any energy usage consumed by the water heater.  The only downside to this free energy is that the unit and installation costs more than common water heating systems.  Then again, the unit will be able to pay for itself since you will be enjoying years of free heated water.

One thing that is unavoidable with water heating systems is that one way or other problems will occur.  It is common knowledge that different problems will require different ways of solving them.  This makes it very important to have at least some general knowledge on how you can solve or avert such problems.

When water is heated, the calcium carbonate present in the water will precipitate and settle to the bottom.  Each time this happens, sediments collect inside the storage tank and eventually build up.  In addition to this, any particles present in the water may also settle inside the tank and add to the buildup.  Although the sediment buildup happens very slowly, it will eventually collect to a point where there is excessive sediment buildup inside the tank.  Also, in some areas that have water categorized to be very hard, the likelihood of that storage tank filling up with sediments will happen in just a short time.  Once the water heater has lots of sediment inside it, the water flow will be affected as well as the heating.  The most recommended solution and prevention for any sediment buildup would be flushing the tank regularly.

Another common issue with storage tank water heaters, be it gas-fired or electric, is that they run out of hot water quickly or that they only provide warm water.  This issue is likely caused by a broken dip tube, a small plastic tube that allows cool water to flow at the bottom of the storage tank.  Should the dip tube be broken, the cold water coming in will blend with the already heated water which will result in you getting only warm water.  This issue can be easily fixed by replacing the dip tube.  However, if the problem is not with the dip tube and it is in fact with the thermostat, you may need to prepare to spend more on having the thermostat repaired or replaced.

Pressure buildup is a common but major problem with traditional storage tank water heaters.  Water expands when it is heated which is why every storage water heater has a pressure reducing valve or a check valve.  This device of the water heating unit enables the pressure to be released thus preventing any pressure buildup.  In the event the valve is blocked, the pressure will definitely spike.  If the pressure is left unchecked, the immense buildup of pressure inside the tank may reach a level that the tank will fail and burst.  In order to prevent this, you need to control this pressure.  This can be accomplished by using a thermal expansion tank or by having a temperature pressure valve installed on the inlet line.  This setup will enable the release of any elevated pressures without any problems.  The temperature pressure valve is actually sensitive enough to detect any buildup in pressure.  If you do have this device installed in you water heating unit, you’ll need to have it checked and replaced occasionally as its average lifespan is up to 2 years.

Below are some of the many reasons why you must flush your hot water heater.  Flushing will actually save you some precious money on energy cost.  Furthermore, the sediment that lies at the bottom of the tank displaces your hot water volume, which means that you have less available hot water (not to mention the rust, calcium scale, dirt and iron in the bottom of the tank as well).  Bacteria can also typically grow and thrive in the older tanks in which you could sometimes smell a certain type of sulfur or rotten egg odor.

After you do the first flushing, you may reconsider making some hot chocolate or hot tea straight directly from the hot water tap.  This kind of dirt that will be coming out of the bottom of the water tank can be pretty ugly.

There can be as much as eight inches of sediment that lies at the bottom of a 15-year-old hot water heater, which can be one good reason why you will not be able to have enough hot water whenever you need it.  Flushing your tank can also actually help in making the unit last longer, and by cleaning the unit on an annual basis, you will surely notice any future rusting occurring on the exterior, which indicates that it is time for you to replace the unit or else it may cause flooding in your home.

There are many ways on how to flush a hot water heater:

For electric water heaters – make sure that you turn the power off at the main service entrance box (either the fuse box or the circuit breaker).

For gas water heaters – make sure that you turn the red temperature dial to vacation.  At the top of the water heater tank, you will see the cold water inlet valve.  Turn that off.  At the bottom of the water heater tank, you will see the drain cock or hose bib.   Hook up your garden hose, take the other end outside and away from your flower beds.  If you have a floor drain present, put the end of the hose in the floor drain.  Bear in mind that the water that will come out of the water heater tank is extremely hot, so do not forget to warn others in the surrounding area.

At the top of the water heater and coming from the cold water inlet line, there is normally a flex hose that is attached to the top of the hot water heater which allows the water into the tank.  With the use of some pliers, unscrew the flex hose attachment at the top of the water heater tank and then just flop it over out of the way.  This typically relieves the water pressure building up in the water supply line and tank, which then allows the air to enter the water heater tank for easy drainage.

When the tank is drained once, refill it to about half full and then drain it one more time.  After that, you could say that you have cleaned your unit and you are ready to close it back up again.  Make sure that you have the flex hose on tight again and ensure that there are no drips at the top of the tank.  Prepare some pipe dope nearby in case any drips occur.  Also, while the tank is empty, it is wise to make sure if it is level.  If not, shim and make the tank level prior to refilling it with clean water.

If you happen to notice the presence of foul odors coming from your water such as the smell of sulfur or rotten eggs, it is highly possible that there are bacteria currently existing inside the hot water holding tank.  To eliminate such foul odor and maybe even harmful bacteria, you need to first re-hook the inlet connection line and then allow the tank to re-fill at least half full.  Afterwards, with the use of a funnel, add one gallon of bleach by pouring it in at the top of the water heater at the inlet opening.  Then, completely refill the tank and allow it to set for approximately 30 minutes.  This technique usually kills any bacteria residing in the tank.  After the 30-minute decontamination process, check each and every plumbing fixture (such as sinks, bathtubs, etc.), turn on the hot water side, and then let it run for about a good 15 minutes.  This method should effectively and easily remove most of the bleach in the tank, and after all that, you and your water heater tank are both good to go for another whole year.

If you have your water heater situated in your garage, it should be placed on a platform that is at least 18 inches off the garage floor, just in case gasoline or other highly flammable products should accidentally spill.

If you need to replace your water heater, make it a point to not but the cheapest hot water heater available in the market.   You think that by buying the cheapest hot water heater unit you will be saving lots of money from it, but in reality, it will actually cost you more in the energy consumption factor later on.  Additionally, read the “Energy Factor” on the tank labels.  It is because the higher the numbers, the better the fuel efficiency.  If your area has really hard water available, you may want to flush your system to about twice a year, or consider getting a water softener.  Water softeners could also help with not having to flush your unit very often.  Always check your T&P valve (temperature and pressure relief valve) and make sure that it is perfectly working.  Pull the level and it should let hot water to escape.  If in case the T&P valve is not working properly, do replace it as soon as possible.  It is also highly recommended that the T&P valve must be replaced about every 3 to 4 years for your safety and wellbeing.